A Black Hmong Guide Named Chay

                                                                 

Chay at Home

Chay was an 18year-old black Hmong guide when I met her at Sapa in February 2007. It was a little crazy as my sister and I visited Sapa twice in one and a half month though we had travelled by different routes to reach there. On our second visit in March, we hired her service again though we could explore on our own. The Hmong guides are great companions and translators. We learned their culture from the stories they shared.

Chay was a nice and smart girl who hung to the phrase "I don't mind" but what she really meant was infect - I don't mind. That was indeed a big mistake and we were shocked at first with her bluntness. After learning what she was trying to express, we corrected her immediately.

Most Hmong are animist but

Pictures of Mother Mary & Jesus

her family was exception. We discovered that she and her family are Catholic when we visited her home. I am so glad to have found this and hope she would keep the good faith. Her home was located few km away from Sapa town. For working convenience, she and her roommate, both working as tour guides rented a little room in town and return home once a week or every fortnight during peak season. Chay is a certified tour guide who gone through short term training and speaks good English where she picked up from foreign visitors. Every morning, she would report to a regular hotel, waiting to be appointed. Sometimes, She would take job from other hotels if there was no tour from her attached hotel. In peak seasons, she made more and during low season, she spent time making embroidery for her new clothes and returned to home more regular.

Chay & Tyng-on the way to Chay's home

We also visited Chay at her rented room one evening with the intention to purchase her traditional clothes. Her room was just big enough for a double bed and little space to rest legs when sitting by the bed. The wall became her wardrobe and photo gallery. Under the dim light, we viewed the photos taken with tourists and friends like us. We spotted some of her photos taken in Hanoi where she wore modern clothing. Chay told us the younger generations sometimes wear modern clothing. This was the effect of globalization. I am worry in the near future; they would only wear the traditional clothing on special occasions. Just like the ethnic minorities in Thailand and some parts of China, they are commonly seen on modern clothing.

At this young age, Chay was already holding the "purse" in her family. Working as tour guide, she was able to make more income comparing to farming and other jobs. She shared her worry about her brother's tuition fee as he was  going into high school soon then. There was an occasion when My sister and I were running our seasonal little business in a mall, a lady with psychic power came to view our stuffs. When she touched the piece of clothing I bought from Chay, she told my sister this girl held the "purse" in her family. Absolutely true!

With most of the Hmong marry at young age, Chay chosen not to go into marriage before finding a reliable man. The fear arose as many Hmong men are alcoholics and opium addicts. The women had to work from the field to the kitchen and also caring for the children. I sincerely hope she finds her Mr. Right and new career opportunity. It is very sad that the Hmong girls' career lifespan as tour guide are short as they get replaced by the younger ones.

The next time if you ever visit Sapa and need her contact, please ask from me. Or, if you come across her, just say hello to her.